From kulchas to fish tikkas, here's all that you must try in the holy city
Text & Photos: SATARUPA PAUL
Nowhere perhaps is the love of rich, hearty and desi ghee-laden food more pronounced than in the holy city of Amritsar. You could say food is the second-biggest attraction here, after the Golden Temple.
In a city that has lent its name to iconic dishes, from kulchas to fish tikkas, and where scores of establishments do great imitations of the originals, deciding what to try and finding the best places to do so could be overwhelming. So, we’ve done the homework and rounded up with a list that’ll tide you through the day or several. Take your pick.
Amritsari kulchas
The choice of breakfast in Amritsar also happens to be the most famous dish to be originated in the city—Amritsari kulcha. Stuffed with potato or cottage cheese and baked to a golden crisp in the tandoor, the hot kulchas are crumbled by hand until flaky and topped with a generous helping of desi ghee. Served with a side of chole and spicy chutney, kulchas are a must-have. While most spots serve this dish, Kulcha Land has some of the best. Operational since before the Partition in Lahore and later in Amritsar, Kulcha Land has been dishing out this delight for four generations now. Where: Kulcha Land, District Shopping Centre, Ranjit Avenue Cost: INR 45-70 per kulcha
Chole puri and pinni
If you wish to try another Punjabi breakfast staple, head over to Kanha Sweets. The puris are fried in pure ghee, and served with chole and a tangy potato curry. They also serve pinnis to satiate your sweet cravings. Prepared with lentil and jaggery, pinnis are rich and delectable, and make for great gifts to take back home. Where: Kanha Sweets, Opp. BBK DAV College, Dayanand Nagar Cost: Approx INR 150
Langar and karah prashad
Lunch time in Amritsar often means forming a beeline for the langar at the Sri Harmandir Sahib, or famously, the Golden Temple. The largest community kitchen in the world, the langar is open 24×7, and feeds over 80,000 people for free daily. The meals here are simple: roti, rice, a bowl of pulses and some kind of vegetables. The experience of eating with thousands of people is unlike any other. Also, don’t miss the karah prashad here, a semolina halwa so rich that the ghee seeps out and drips along the length of your arm, if you do not eat it immediately. Where: The Golden Temple, Atta Mandi, Katra Ahluwalia Cost: Free
Makki di roti and sarson da saag
A winter speciality, the smooth and ghee-soaked saag is made of mustard leaves fresh off the farm, and is served with wholesome corn-flour rotis at Bharawan da Dhaba. Located in the old town, which is a 10-minute walk from the Golden Temple, Bharawan da Dhaba has been around since 1912, and serves some great vegetarian fare. Where: Bharawan da Dhaba, Near Town Hall Cost: INR 170
Mah ki dal
If there’s one eatery in Amritsar that rivals all others in popularity, it’s the hole-in-the-wall Kesar da dhaba. Founded in 1916 in Sheikhupura, Pakistan, and then reopened in Amritsar after the Partition, this legendary dhaba has hosted the who’s who of India, from Lala Lajpat Rai and Jawaharlal Nehru to Rajesh Khanna and Yash Chopra. The specialty here is the mah ki dal—a preparation of whole black gram lentils that is simmered for 12 hours and served with lachcha paratha or butter naan. Where: Kesar da Dhaba, Chowk Passian, Near Telephone Exchange Cost: INR 200
Kulfas
From the dish to the way it’s put together, everything served at A-One Kulfa is a work of art. Kulfas, the ‘big brother’ of the kulfi, are made with a layer of phirni, topped with scoops of kulfi and falooda, some gond (edible gum), and a dash of syrup and kewra (rose water). It is finished with some rabri. Where: A-One Kulfa, 3, Queens Rd, Crystal Chowk, INA Colony Cost: INR 50
Lassi
From mango to kesar, the lassi at Ahuja’s, available in a variety of flavours, is an Amritsari favourite. The lassis here are so creamy and thick in texture that you often need a spoon to scoop it out. Oh, and even the lassis in Amritsar are served with a dollop of butter. Where: Ahuja Milk Bhandar, BK Dutt Gate, Dhab Khatikan, Katra Ahluwalia Cost: INR 40-60
Amritsari fish tikka
Amritsar is not all about vegetarian food. The fish tikkas here are fresh, perfectly spiced and sprinkled with masala. Another must try here is the fried sangara (fried fish), enjoyed best with beer. Where: Makhan Fish and Chicken Corner, 21A, Near Madaan Hospital Makhan Chowk, Majitha Rd Cost: INR 500-800
Ghee roast chicken
A stone’s throw from Makhan, Beera Chicken House is another must-visit for non-vegetarian food. The whiff of roasted chicken being basted with pure ghee lingers around even before you reach here. The ambience is spartan, but the taste of the ghee roasted chicken, with a texture so soft that it falls off the bones, will more than make up for it. Where: Beera Chicken House, Shop – 100 opposite Bhandari hospital, Majitha Rd Cost: INR 370 for a full plate
Mutton Chaap
Some of the best joints in Amritsar are decrepit structures tucked away from your sight. Adarsh, too, belongs to the same brigade. The long queues, though, are a giveaway. The wait is worth it, when you finally get your hands on a plate of their mutton chaap—slow cooked, shallow fried, spicy, tangy, and tender. Where: Adarsh Meat Shop, C Block, Ranjit Avenue Cost: INR 230
Jalebis
An easy-to-miss rundown shop, Gurdas Ram Jalebi Wala has only two things on its menu—gulab jamuns and jalebis. But it does such a good job with the both of them that you’ll find it hard to choose. The jalebis, though, are a sure win. Fried piping hot in a wok full of desi ghee and dipped in a syrup that is just the right amount of sweet, the jalebis are a good way to end your culinary adventures. Where: Gurdas Ram Jalebi Wala, Katra Ahluwalia, Amritsar Cost: INR 250/kg
First published in November 2018 digital issue of Conde Nast Traveller magazine (www.cntraveller.in/story/heres-eat-amritsar/)
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